A new player has entered the world of aviation horology, looking to combine British design heritage with Swiss manufacturing excellence. Sortie Watches has officially introduced its inaugural timepiece, the Sortie BH1000.
Departing from the standard formula of vintage reissues, Sortie aims to “reimagine the pilots watch” by balancing modern versatility with the historical gravity of the Battle of Britain. The release brings three distinct variants to the market, all powered by Swiss mechanics and built with a clear mission: to honor the unwavering spirit of those who defended the skies.
Born from Biggin Hill
The identity of the new collection is deeply rooted in the history of Biggin Hill, a legendary RAF station in Kent. The model name, BH1000, is a direct reference to the station and the more than 1,000 sorties that were launched from the base during the Second World War.
For founder Andrew Durr, this inspiration is personal. Growing up near Biggin Hill Airport, his passion for aviation was ignited by watching aircraft soar overhead. This release represents the convergence of his interests in horology, history, and aviation, designed to be a “distinctive” homage rather than “just another pilot’s watch”.
While the narrative is British, the engineering is Swiss. The BH1000 is built to be a robust daily wearer, offering specifications that prioritize practicality.
The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug length of 47.8mm and a height of 12mm. These dimensions suggest a comfortable fit for a wide range of wrist sizes. Powering the BH1000 is the Swiss Made SW290-1 Elaboré Grade automatic movement. This caliber features a 41-hour power reserve and is distinct for its sub-dial layout.
Dial Design and Variants
The launch includes three dial options, all featuring a sunburst finish with accent colors for balance.
Flight Blue
Features a vibrant sunburst dial that shifts in tone depending on the light. It is accented with balanced colors on each side of the dial, creating a classic yet refreshed aviation look that pairs perfectly with the stainless steel case.
Alpha Green
Features a rich, earth-toned sunburst green dial, providing a sophisticated alternative to traditional watch colors. The dial is finished with specific accent colors to maintain visual balance, nodding to the heritage of British aviation in a unique and stylish way.
Stealth Black
Modern, tactical aesthetic by pairing a deep sunburst dial with a matching DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coated case and bracelet. The monochromatic look highlights the watch’s technical features while maintaining a sleek, low-profile presence on the wrist.
A key design element is the use of Super-LumiNova for visibility and a unique nod to the RAF. The two round indices positioned above and below the small seconds hand are designed to relate back to the circles found in the RAF logo.
The BH1000 is paired with a bracelet featuring a 20mm lug width and a quick-release mechanism, allowing for easy strap changes. Prioritizing comfort, the clasp includes on-the-fly micro-adjustment. This feature allows the wearer to fine-tune the fit throughout the day without tools.
Pricing, Availability & Where to Get One
Priced at £1,740 (including VAT), The Sortie BH1000 is positioned in the entry-luxury segment.
By uniting “British design and Swiss craftsmanship,” Sortie Watches is targeting enthusiasts who value historical storytelling wrapped in a modern, high-spec package.
Case Diameter: 40mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Case Material: 316L Stainless steel or Black DLC-coated stainless steel
Water Resistance: 150 meters
Caliber: Swiss Made Sellita SW290-1 Elaboré Grade, Automatic
Crystal: Double-domed box sapphire crystal with AR coating
Function: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock, and date
The Sortie BH1000 represents a confident entry into the horological market, successfully bridging the gap between a specialized aviation tool and a refined “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” (GADA) sports watch. By moving away from oversized, literal vintage homages, Sortie has created a timepiece that feels contemporary while remaining deeply connected to British history through its ties to RAF Biggin Hill.
