In a world where true mechanical moonphase chronographs typically cost thousands, the Seagull 1963 Legacy Edition emerges as a standout exception—offering authentic craftsmanship, heritage, and mechanical magic for under €500. This 70th anniversary release not only honors Seagull’s historic roots but redefines value for enthusiasts seeking horological elegance without the luxury markup, giving us a serious candidate for the best affordable moonphase watch title.

Born from the Tangent Watch Factory’s storied past, the Seagull 1963 Legacy Edition celebrates 70 years of Chinese watchmaking excellence. Originally developed for the Chinese Air Force in the 1960s, the iconic 1963 model used a movement derived from the Swiss Venus 175—eventually evolving into Seagull’s renowned ST19 series. For the Legacy Edition, Seagull introduces the refined ST1908 movement, a moonphase-equipped mechanical chronograph, retaining the hand-wound charm of its ancestors.

Limited to only 1,500 units, the Legacy Edition is not just a reissue—it’s a deliberate fusion of military history and modern craftsmanship.
Affordable Doesn’t Mean Compromise
At just €479 (approx. $560 USD)—shipping and duty fees included—the Legacy Edition delivers astonishing value. While many brands cut corners at this price point, Seagull offers:
- A box-cut sapphire crystal, reminiscent of vintage hesalite domes, but scratch-resistant and durable.
- Heat-blued steel hands, not painted—offering true artisan appeal.
- Rose gold accents framing the indices and logo for a refined, vintage-modern look.
- A 2-year warranty, rare for watches in this segment, ensuring buyer confidence.

This isn’t a homage watch. It’s the original brand, re-engineered for today. Unlike earlier 1963 models that often leaned into tool-watch aesthetics, the Legacy Edition embraces minimalism. The champagne sunburst dial is the heart of the watch’s visual appeal. Layered with a silver base and overlaid with golden tones, it plays with light to create a metallic, dressy sheen. The hands, curved subtly toward the edges, hug the dial’s contour, providing a tactile and dimensional feel.
Case, Comfort & Wearability
Refinement continues in the case dimensions: a perfectly balanced 40mm diameter, a more ergonomic 46mm lug-to-lug that will make it feel like a 38mm, and a wearable 15mm thickness, including the domed sapphire.

Comfort is no afterthought. With downward-curving lugs and a polished case that nods to its aviation tool roots, it wears lighter and slimmer than expected—even on warmer days. The exhibition case back showcases the movement’s beating heart, giving collectors something to admire every time it’s off the wrist.
Despite only 50 meters of water resistance, this isn’t meant to be a diver—it’s a pilot’s companion, ideal for suits, weekends, and everything in between.
Moonphase Elegance at a Budget
The Legacy Edition’s moonphase complication is where affordability and sophistication meet. A deep black-blue sky backdrop with painted stars and a traditional crescent window offers timeless charm.
Even more impressive? It glows. The moonphase display is lumed, creating a subtle, celestial glow in low light. While it won’t replace your diver’s lume, the gentle visibility feels appropriate for its elegant profile.

Moonphase functionality is easily adjusted via a dedicated side pusher—functional, intuitive, and perfectly executed.
Strap Talk: Versatility & Swappability
The stock strap, a soft nappa exterior with calf leather lining, is decent—but somewhat understated compared to the watch’s dynamic dial. Fortunately, the Legacy Edition shines on a variety of straps.

Switching to a vintage-style pilot strap or a dark leather taper would instantly elevate the visual contrast, making it a watch that can effortlessly transition from weekday to weekend wear.
Collectors who love customization will find the 20mm lug width highly accommodating.
Who Should Buy This Watch?
If you’re hunting for the best affordable mechanical moonphase watch on the market, look no further. The Seagull 1963 Legacy Edition checks every box: authentic history, refined build, moonphase complication, hand-wound mechanical movement, and all under €500.
It’s for the enthusiast who values history over hype. For the collector who seeks mechanical complexity without credit card remorse. And for anyone who believes horology should be both beautiful and accessible.

Technical Specifications – Seagull 1963 Legacy Edition

Case Diameter: 40mm
Case Thickness: 15mm
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Water Resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM
Caliber: Seagull ST19 hand-winding Chronograph movement; 21 Jewels; 21600 BPH
Crystal: Boxed sapphire crystal
Functions: Lumed moonphase complication