In the world of horology, few categories resonate more deeply with adventure and history than the field watch. Rugged, legible, and purpose-built, field watches have long been the trusted companions of soldiers, explorers, and aviators—those whose lives often depended on split-second timing and unflinching reliability.
Lorier, renowned for its stellar price‑to‑quality microbrand offerings and one of our favourite microbrands, has teamed up with The Urban Gentry to unveil the Merlin—a captivating homage to WWII-era Allied aviation. With its $550 price tag and strictly limited run of 500 units, the Lorier Merlin raises the bar for accessible pilot’s watches.

Drawing inspiration from iconic WWII-era pilot’s watches—including the Longines Weems, the Omega CK2129, and the Rolex Zerograph, and named after the legendary Rolls-Royce Merlin engine that powered the Spitfire, this 37 mm timepiece is both tribute and evolution. It bridges the utilitarian DNA of field watches with the precision-engineered purpose of aviation instruments, all while remaining firmly rooted in Lorier’s ethos: mechanical watches built to be worn, not stored.
Priced accessibly at $549, the Lorier Merlin channels the clarity, courage, and cool that defined the Allied pilots of WWII—making it more than just a field watch. It’s a mission-ready companion for the modern collector.

Lorier Merlin: Modern Movement Meets Vintage Feel
At its heart, the Merlin runs on the Miyota 90S5 automatic—a reliable, thin, no‑date caliber upgraded to 28,800 bph. The no-date layout avoids any phantom crown positions and simplifies wear.
The applied 3D Super-LumiNova markers and handset glow green at night, contrasting soft daytime tones—combining field-watch urgency with pilot’s clarity.

A Watch Rooted in Functional Tradition
The Lorier Merlin draws direct inspiration from some of the most historically significant aviation timepieces worn by Allied pilots during the golden age of navigation. Chief among them is the Longines Weems, introduced in 1935 in collaboration with U.S. Navy Lieutenant Commander P.V.H. Weems. It tackled a critical need in aviation—allowing pilots to make precise timing adjustments without having to recalibrate their watches constantly, using a rotating bezel secured by a secondary crown.
But the Merlin’s design DNA goes beyond the Longines Weems. It also channels the rugged functionality and mission-focused design of watches like the Omega CK2129, issued to RAF pilots in the early 1940s, with its rotating bezel and high-contrast layout for instant readability under pressure. Then there’s the Rolex Zerograph ref. 3346, an early and rare chronograph that introduced a resettable seconds hand—bridging the gap between tool watch and stopwatch. Despite their differences, these watches shared a common philosophy: accuracy, clarity, and adaptability in unforgiving environments.

With its rotating bezel, high-contrast dial, and classic proportions, the Lorier Merlin isn’t just a nod to the past—it’s a modern tool watch that pays tribute to an era when timing was a matter of life and death.
So, how does the Lorier Merlin channel this legacy?
1. Rotating Bezel with Locking Mechanism
2. High Contrast, Legible Dial
3. Centralized, Elegant Hands
4. Purpose-Driven Compact Case
The result? A faithful reinterpretation—not a replication. The Lorier Merlin translates those enduring values into a modern context, where accuracy, durability, and legibility remain just as vital to today’s enthusiasts, travelers, and adventurers.
Technical Specifications – Lorier Merlin

Case Diameter: 37 mm
Case Thickness: 9 mm (11 mm including domed crystal)
Case Material: 316L stainless steel
Water Resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM
Caliber: Miyota 90S5 automatic
Crystal: Domed Hesalite
Functions: Bidirectional friction bezel, Bezel-locking crown at 4 o’clock