Breaking the Radar: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Razzle Dazzle

The world of microbrand watches often oscillates between faithful vintage homages and wild, experimental designs. Rarely do these two paths intersect with as much intentionality as they do in the Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Razzle Dazzle Limited Edition. Released as a collaboration with British horological artist Chris Alexander, better known as The Dial Artist, this 500 piece limited edition is a reimagining of maritime history through the lens of abstract expressionism.

While the standard Fleuss collection pays tribute to Henry Fleuss and the early days of diving, this edition takes its cues from the surface of the water rather than the depths. It draws inspiration from Razzle Dazzle, a WWI naval camouflage designed by Norman Wilkinson to confuse the range and heading of enemy vessels by breaking up their visual form with high contrast geometric patterns.

The Art of Visual Distortion

The standout feature is undoubtedly the dial and bezel, which have been individually hand painted by Chris Alexander. This is not a mass-produced print; it is a labor-intensive process where a digital pattern is vinyl cut and applied by hand to ensure no two configurations are identical.

The technical execution of the dial is particularly noteworthy. A black lacquer base is followed by color changing paint applied in thin, progressive layers. This ensures the dial remains slim enough for the movement’s tolerances while providing a shifting, iridescent quality that mimics the way light hits a moving ship at sea. By using the watch as a canvas, Spinnaker has effectively transformed a tool watch into a piece of wearable art.

The choice of the Miyota 9 series movement is a strategic one. Compared to the ubiquitous Seiko NH35 found in entry-level divers, the Miyota 9 series offers a higher beat rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, resulting in a smoother sweep of the seconds hand. It is also significantly thinner, allowing the Fleuss 40 to maintain a more balanced profile on the wrist despite the layered paint on the dial.

The “amazing” quality of the lume on this model stems from its complex, multi-layered application that mirrors the disruptive nature of the Razzle Dazzle pattern. Rather than a single uniform glow, the watch features a dual-color luminous scheme that highlights different sections of the geometric artwork.

The bold, intersecting geometric patterns on the dial are infused with luminous material, allowing the “Razzle Dazzle” effect to remain active even in total darkness.

The application of lume on this edition was a technically demanding process due to the “Razzle Dazzle” artwork’s complexity. To achieve the sharp, clean lines visible in the dark, the pattern was vinyl cut and applied to the dial by hand.

Pricing, Availability & Where to Get One

The Fleuss 40 Razzle Dazzle Limited Edition is positioned as an accessible entry point into the world of artisanal, hand-painted horology. It carries a retail price of $475 USD. This pricing is particularly aggressive given that each of the 500 numbered pieces features a dial and bezel individually hand-painted by Chris Alexander, also known as The Dial Artist.

By offering a high-beat Miyota 9 series movement alongside such labor-intensive artistic customisation, Spinnaker provides significant value for collectors who prioritize unique aesthetics without the typical four-figure price tag associated with hand-painted independent watches.

Spinnaker has successfully leveraged the current trend of artist collaborations to breathe new life into one of their most popular silhouettes. By selecting a pattern as historically significant as the Razzle Dazzle, they have avoided the trap of making a “gimmick” watch. Instead, they have created a timepiece that feels like a legitimate tribute to maritime ingenuity.

While some may find the pattern too chaotic for daily wear, the 40mm case size keeps it grounded. It is a bold statement piece that bridges the gap between the rough-and-tumble world of naval history and the refined world of contemporary art.