Over the last few years, Timex has quietly shifted gear: once known for affordable, reliable, everyday watches, the brand is now turning serious attention to the “traveller’s watch” category, and in particular, true GMT complications. With the launches of the Swiss‑made Atelier line and a high‑profile collaboration with The James Brand, Timex is staking its claim in a space reserved for collectors and globetrotters. In this article, we’ll unpack how Timex is executing its GMT strategy, and then take an in‑depth look at the two new models: the Atelier GMT24 M1a and the James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT.
Within Timex’s own evolution, the launch of the Atelier sub‑line signals an elevation of design, materials and mechanics. For example, the Atelier site says:
“Over the past 170 years, we have been in constant pursuit of what is new, relevant, and next.”
Meanwhile, collaborations with design‑driven brands like The James Brand provide fresh energy and positioning.
Designed for outdoor enthusiasts, these timepieces offer precision and durability in multiple time zones.
Timex Atelier GMT24 M1a
A refined, Swiss‑made traveler’s watch blending modern design with true GMT precision for those who value sophistication and functionality.
The James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT
A rugged, design‑driven collaboration merging tool‑watch toughness with everyday versatility, powered by a true automatic GMT movement.
The Timex Atelier GMT24 M1a
Design & Heritage
The model comes from the Timex Atelier line, a more premium arm of the brand. Its microsite describes the line as “designed to be discovered, slowly, over time.”
This is the first major complication in the Atelier line: a true GMT movement (Landeron 24) rather than a simple dual‑time. According to Timex, the Landeron 24 GMT automatic movement runs at 28,800 vph, includes 28 jewels and offers a ~40‑hour power reserve.
The dial is appropriately travel‑centric: black dial, an orange GMT hand for contrast, luminous markers, and an exhibition caseback to reveal the movement.
Technical Highlights
- Movement: Swiss-made Landeron 24 automatic “true” GMT with independent 24-hour hand and ~40-hour power reserve, running at 28,800 vph with 28 jewels.
- Case: 40 mm stainless steel with brushed finish, skeletonized lugs, and 100 m water resistance; topped with a glass-box sapphire crystal.
- Bezel: Fixed 24-hour scale bezel designed for intuitive second time zone tracking, matched with an internal GMT scale on the dial.
- Strap/Bracelet: Available on stainless steel bracelet or rubber strap, both featuring a quick‑release system and self‑adjust sizing for seamless comfort. Quick‑release strap system (on strap version) and self‑adjust bracelet links for ease of sizing.
For Timex, this watch is a statement: it aims to compete not just with budget GMTs but with higher‑tier offerings. The design push by creative director Giorgio Galli (whose design lab drives the Atelier line) creates a bridge between design‑driven luxury and accessibility.
The James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT
Collaboration & Concept
The partnership between The James Brand (an EDC – everyday carry – specialist) and Timex takes on the GMT function with a rugged, design‑forward approach.
The model features a 41 mm case, automatic Miyota 9075 GMT movement, sapphire crystal, 200 m water resistance, and quick‑release strap/bracelet system.
The latest iteration is a limited edition (1,000 individually numbered pieces) featuring a stainless‑steel case (sand‑blasted) and forged carbon fibre dial.
Technical Highlights
- Movement: Miyota 9075 “true” GMT that allows independent hour hand adjustment for local time zone while GMT hand remains tracking home zone.
- Case: 41 mm diameter, sand‑blasted steel (or titanium in earlier versions) with 200 m water resistance.
- Bezel: Unidirectional rotating 24‑hour bezel (enabling tracking of a third time zone) plus 24‑hour scale on the dial.
- Strap/Bracelet: Gift set includes self‑adjusting bracelet plus fabric strap, both quick‑release.
This collab serves as a powerful expression of Timex’s GMT ambition from a different angle: design meets utility, lifestyle meets mechanics. The limited‑edition nature and the adoption of carbon‑fibre materials, strong lume, and tool‑watch credentials (200 m WR!) elevate the piece beyond mere fashion.
Conclusion
Timex’s renewed focus on GMT watches is impressive. By releasing two very different yet complementary GMT models (the Swiss‑made Atelier GMT24 M1a and the high‑spec, design‑collaboration James Brand × Timex Automatic GMT), the brand shows it can cater to both the enthusiast collector and the modern traveller/lifestyle watch buyer.
Whether you prioritize movement provenance, tool watch specs or design narrative, one of these models is likely to resonate. More than that, they reflect a broader shift: Timex stepping up, mastering the GMT complication, and staking a claim to the world‑time category.
